10 Common Problems in Sublimation with Polycrylic and Solutions

Polycrylic can be an effective coating for sublimation on non-polyester surfaces. However, the process has specific challenges that can affect print quality and durability. This guide outlines the most frequent issues and offers practical solutions.

1. Uneven Coating Application

Problem:
Brush strokes, drips, or inconsistent layers lead to patchy color transfer.

Uneven Polycrylic coating on wood showing streaks before sublimation.

Solution:

  • Use a high-quality foam brush or spray application.
  • Apply multiple thin coats instead of one thick layer.
  • Sand lightly with fine-grit sandpaper between coats for a smooth surface.

2. Streaks or Lines in the Print

Problem:
Visible lines appear after pressing, often due to brush marks in the Polycrylic layer.

Ceramic tile sublimation with visible streaks from Polycrylic application.

Solution:

  • Let each coat self-level before drying.
  • Avoid over-brushing once the layer starts to set.
  • Consider spraying for a more even finish.

3. Yellowing After Heat Press

Problem:
High heat can cause the Polycrylic to discolor.

Comparison of normal vs yellowed sublimation on wood coated with Polycrylic.

Solution:

  • Keep pressing temperatures within 385°F–400°F (196°C–204°C).
  • Reduce pressing time when possible.
  • Allow the coated surface to cure fully for at least 24–48 hours before pressing.

4. Blurry or Faded Image

Problem:
Design lacks sharpness, usually caused by surface texture or insufficient curing.

Blurry sublimation print compared to sharp image on Polycrylic surface.

Solution:

  • Ensure the coated surface is smooth and fully cured.
  • Increase pressure slightly for better ink penetration.
  • Check sublimation paper for compatibility with hard surfaces.

5. Ghosting or Double Images

Problem:
Image shifts slightly during pressing, creating a blurred outline.

Ghosting effect on sublimation print with Polycrylic coating.

Solution:

  • Secure sublimation paper with heat-resistant tape.
  • Avoid moving the press before the substrate cools slightly.
  • Apply even pressure throughout the press.

6. Peeling or Flaking of Design

Problem:
Sublimated design lifts or chips over time.

Peeling sublimation design on Polycrylic-coated wood.

Solution:

  • Ensure the Polycrylic layer is fully cured before pressing.
  • Avoid thick or uneven coating layers.
  • Handle the finished product gently for the first 24 hours.

7. Poor Ink Absorption

Problem:
Colors appear dull because the coating doesn’t bond well with the ink.

Faded sublimation on ceramic mug from poor Polycrylic ink bonding.

Solution:

  • Stir the Polycrylic before use to avoid ingredient separation.
  • Apply at least two coats for proper coverage.
  • Press with firm pressure to help ink embed in the coating.

8. Bubbles or Texture in the Coating

Problem:
Air bubbles create an uneven surface, disrupting image transfer.

Air bubbles in Polycrylic coating before sublimation.

Solution:

  • Apply the coating slowly to avoid air entrapment.
  • Use a foam brush and smooth strokes.
  • Let each layer dry completely before adding the next.

9. Warping of the Substrate

Problem:
High heat causes non-heat-resistant surfaces to bend or warp.

Warped wooden substrate after sublimation with Polycrylic.

Solution:

  • Choose substrates rated for heat press use.
  • Use a lower temperature with a slightly longer pressing time if needed.
  • Support thin substrates with a flat backing during pressing.

10. Surface Contamination

Problem:
Dust, fingerprints, or residue prevent the ink from bonding.

Dust and fingerprints on Polycrylic surface before sublimation.

Solution:

  • Clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol before coating.
  • Store coated items in a dust-free environment until pressing.
  • Wear gloves to avoid skin oils transferring.

For a step-by-step coating method and temperature guide, see How to Use Polycrylic for Sublimation.

Quick Reference Table

IssueLikely CauseBest Fix
Uneven coatingThick layers, poor toolsThin coats, foam brush, sanding
Streaks/linesOver-brushing, uneven levelingLet self-level, spray application
YellowingExcessive heat/timeLower temp/time, cure fully
Blurry/faded imageSurface texture, uncured coatingSmooth surface, increase pressure
GhostingPaper movementTape, steady pressing
Peeling/flakingThick coats, uncured layerThin coats, full cure
Poor ink absorptionThin coating, low bondingTwo coats, firm pressure
Bubbles/textureAir in applicationSlow strokes, full drying
WarpingLow heat resistanceLower temp, support backing
ContaminationDust, oils, residueClean with alcohol, use gloves

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Applying thick coats – Leads to uneven curing and poor ink absorption. Always use thin, even layers.
  • Not letting the coating cure fully – Pressing too soon can cause peeling, bubbling, or faded prints.
  • Skipping surface preparation – Dust, fingerprints, or oils block ink bonding. Clean with isopropyl alcohol first.
  • Using excessive heat or time – Can cause yellowing or warping. Stay within recommended press settings.
  • Over-brushing during application – Creates streaks and visible lines in the final print.
  • Ignoring humidity levels – Moisture slows curing and can trap bubbles. Work in a dry, ventilated area.
  • Failing to secure transfer paper – Movement during pressing causes ghosting or double images.
  • Pressing on low heat-resistant surfaces – Can lead to deformation or damage to the blank.
  • Not sanding between coats – Skipping this step leaves surface texture that affects image clarity.
  • Storing coated items in dusty spaces – Dust settles on the surface and shows through the final design.

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FAQs

Polycrylic creates a polymer-like surface on non-polyester materials, allowing sublimation ink to bond. It’s often used on wood, ceramic, and metal blanks.

Two to three thin coats work best. Each coat should dry completely before the next is applied.

Allow at least 24–48 hours for the coating to cure. In humid climates, curing may take longer.

Most users press between 385°F and 400°F (196°C–204°C) for 45–60 seconds, adjusting for substrate type.

Yellowing usually occurs from excessive heat or pressing for too long. Lower the temperature or reduce press time.

Yes. Spraying often produces a smoother surface and reduces brush marks. Use light, even passes to avoid drips.

Secure the transfer paper with heat-resistant tape and avoid moving the press until the surface cools slightly.

Common surfaces include unfinished wood, coated ceramic, aluminum panels, and certain heat-safe glass items.

Blurriness can result from an uneven coating, incomplete curing, or low pressing pressure. Ensure a smooth, cured surface and apply firm, even pressure.

Polycrylic adds a protective layer, but it doesn’t make items fully waterproof. Hand-washing is recommended for coated items.

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